This DIY article will show you how to install the OEM throttle body, aka "TB". Aftermarket throttle bodies may vary slightly. Check the with the manufacturer for any differences PRIOR to beginning installation. If you're reading this thread, you probably have a part that looks like this: Yep. It's a throttle body. In your engine bay, you probably have something that looks like this: Let's put the one on the other! Installing a TB is a very easy task. On a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being changing a light bulb; 10 being a complete engine rebuild), this is about a 2. Approx. time for this project is 20-30 minutes. First, let's take a look at the tools we'll need: - 3/8" Socket Driver - 4" extension for socket driver - T-30 Torx bit - 8mm nut driver - IN-LBS Torque Wrench Not Pictured: 10mm wrench for battery terminal. Okay, let's take care of the electricity and remove the NEG cable from the battery. "Why?", you ask? Because if you don't, you will get a "CHECK ENGINE" light and throw three codes (P0113, P0123, and P0505) when you put everything back together and first start the truck up. Plus, it's safer. Use a 10mm socket to take the terminal off the battery, and set it aside so it won't accidentally contact the terminal. OPTIONAL: When working in the engine bay, sometimes it's nice to get a little closer (...with Arid Extra Dry). After a few nights of back-bending, I found that I could lay a folded towel on the bumper fascia and use it as a knee rest! Works great for projects like this. Before we get all crazy, check to make sure all the parts are 100%. Notice the rubber gasket around the mouth of the intake manifold: Remove the gasket and check for tears/breaks, or any malformation. If there's any damage or wear at all, REPLACE IT. While you're in there, take some throttle body cleaner (sprayed into a paper towel!) and clean up the intake. Get all the surfaces- TB and manifold face- as clean as possible. DO NOT get throttle body cleaner on the rubber gasket!!!! It will eat it. Once the TB and intake are clean and dry, you can re-install the gasket. Before we lose sight of it (and make it really hard to get to), let's put the purge solenoid tube on the TB. There's a small barbed port on the bottom of the TB for the purge solenoid tube: It's a simple push-on connection. No clamps. I start with the (2) upper mounting bolts, and begin their threading by hand: Cross-threading SUCKS. I only threaded the upper bolts about 1/2 way: Why? Because I want the intake manifold to hold the TB in place for me while I do the lower bolts, and still give me some wiggle room to install the lower bolts. Go ahead and install- by hand- the (2) lower TB mounting bolts. I use the extension/T-30 bit as a nut driver for this. Works great. On the lower Driver's side TB mount bolt, there's an L-bracket that holds the IAT wire off the engine block: This only attaches one way. Try to keep it as close to 'vertical' as possible when installing. Check that the gasket is set properly and that everything is aligned correctly (the bolts line things up nicely for you, but....always check!) We can now tighten the (2) upper TB mounting bolts: DO NOT over-tighten the bolts. This is aluminum we're dealing with and it can strip out VERY easily. Only get them on there 'snug'. Go ahead and snug-up the lower bolts using the socket wrench: Now it's time for the torque wrench! Set it a 105 INCH-pounds, and tighten each bolt: Go back and re-check each bolt. Okay. Now you can put the torque wrench away. Let's connect the throttle linkage now. I always thought this was uber-complex, but it's not. They're simply push-on plastic clips. Clip the Main Throttle Control Cable linkage first. Make sure the cable is running in it's 'guide' on the bracket! Then just push on the plastic clip until it pops on the circular mount: For this one, I push from the bottom while holding the bracket in place. You will feel it seat onto the mount. Pretty easy. Do the same thing with the Speed Control (cruise control) Cable: Excellent! Now we can use our foot again! NOTE: The circular mount at the back (closest to the bed) of the throttle cable mount bracket is not used. Don't accidentally hook up one of your cables there. We're ready to install the air inlet tube now! My truck has a JMB Performance CAI intake, so it's slightly different than the stock intake, but the same principles and locations apply. The main intake tube can now be installed. Make sure it's on straight, pressed fully onto the TB inlet port: Line up the hose clamp so that it's properly gripping the hose and TB inlet ALL THE WAY AROUND. Use the 8mm nut driver to tighten the main hose clamp: Then attach the CCV tube from the TB: Use the 8mm nut driver to tighten the CCV hose clamp: Now we need to re-connect all the plugs and sensors, so let's start with the Inlet Air Temp (IAT) sensor. This is located on the intake tube in front of the TB: Firmly connect the two parts of the IAT sensor: You will hear/feel the tab at the back end of the sensor socket latch into place: Slide the red safety tab forward (toward the pass. side): We're done with that sensor connection. The next plug to re-connect is for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It's located on the Passenger side of the TB, closest to the radiator: Simply plug the connector in, and check to make sure that it's latched properly. The last plug to re-connect is for the Idle Air Control (IAC) servo. It's located just behind and below the TPS sensor: Line up the connector and attach the two pieces: Test that the plug is fully latched. Excellent! All of our sensors are hooked back up! You can now re-attach the NEG terminal onto the battery (thought I forgot, didn't ya? LOL). Double-check all connections and cables, and you're ready to rock and roll! DONE ©2007 Kevan J. Geier All Rights Reserved
