Fug it! I give up with this cooling system B.S.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by SRTLUVR, Jan 28, 2010.

  1. King Savage

    King Savage Nasty Canasta

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    Yup Quick...totally accurate. I don't know what the deadband is for the Chrysler PCM but a few degrees F is totally fine...as long as there is SOME degrees.

    I also totally agree with a T-stat lower than "180" degrees or so...I think you get into where the PCM needs to see a minimum temp or something like that and we are so close to that threshold that we dabble around throwing a code when a "170" is run.

    This is all just a guess as so many people have been here/done that already.
     
  2. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    Cool. I'll change the LS fans to 189* & the HS fans to 199* for now. I just got home from work (11:30pm central time), and gotta be back in at 8am. So I'm not gonna install anything tonight. And tomorrow night I have dinner/concert plans with my wife. So it's lookin like Sunday will be the day. I MORE THAN APPRECIATE all the advice guys. I've learned a shitload about my car in the past couple weeks. And you guys have saved me some serious $$$$ (and scratches) from taking it to a stupidass dealership. I can't thank you enough for all the help with this crap. If I ever get to hang with any of you fuggers, dinner and a round of drinks is on me!!!!!! I just hope like hell these last couple of parts, fixes my woes.......
     
  3. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    Well. All started good after putting on my new rad cap & ECT sensor. I made it past my "checkpoint" in my test drive, where the car usually started spitting and overheating.......so I kept driving. About another 5 mins of in-town driving, and another 5 mins of interstate driving. I thought I was in the clear........but when I pulled off the interstate, and "tested" to see what she'd do stopped, I found out. Once I hit a parking lot and just idled for a few minutes, the temp started rising. All the way to 230*. (I checked, and the HS fans were running strong) After 5 mins of cooling down to 206*, I headed for home. Temp dropped all the way down to normal. I'm thinking a last little air pocket is what arose this time. It either passed thru the breather hole in my Jet tsat, or purged itself somehow. Car has been cooling for about an hour now. Tomorrow night I'll burp and fill the system again, just to be sure all is good, and see if I can get that air pocket out. However, this time I'll have to do it by removing the rad cap, and bringing it up to operating temp, and let it cough and burp. Because with my new TB & intake, the water pump plug is too difficult to get to, without other disassembly. Other than that little episode, all went well. I'm praying that my only "demon" is a little air pocket......
    (ps-I changed my LS fans setting to 189* & HS fans setting to 199* before the test drive)
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2010
  4. TALON

    TALON SRTV8

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    Thanks for the update, I hope everything turns out OK.

    Ken
     
  5. LegMaker

    LegMaker LMI - LegMakerIntakes

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    tell the guy that made your intake to think about the ease of access to the bleeder point of the water pump!! lol

    i really hope this is it buddy!!! just so you don't feel alone...... i was driving home from work on friday night when i noticed my temps suddenly jump from 181 to 210 for no reason...... then drop back down just as fast......hmmmmmm i wonder if our cars are long lost twins or something......lol
     
  6. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    LMAO! No shit! Man, I hope this isn't the beginning for you........:sorry:
     
  7. LegMaker

    LegMaker LMI - LegMakerIntakes

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    no....... i just think my seld was having "sympathy pains"......lol

    she ran like a top today!!!
     
  8. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    Likely has a small pocket still?

    At least it's getting better.
     
  9. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    ^^^NO SHIT, HUH RON??!!! If I wasn't so fed up with it, I'd go do it now. But I'm just sick of dealing with it. So I'll burp it tomorrow night, and go for a final drive.
     
  10. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    lol sounds like me and my damn emissions crap. Hopefully tomorrows test will be the LAST? hahaha

    Did you at least get rid of that P2181 code?
     
  11. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    Yup. Code is gone, even after 45 mins of driving :). And that's what leads me to believe it's an air pocket. Because I got that code after 20 mins last time. This time, no code, and fans are working, and coolant is flowing. So process of elimination = air pocket. And hey, thanks for all your help and concern, buddy. Seriously.
     
  12. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    I don't know... just in case I wouldn't declare victory yet. A little healthy skepticism now might preserve your sanity later :). There's no way it should have gone much over 200 - 205 with the high speed fan running. There's always the possibility it's the water pump which is still on the list right?
     
  13. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    I hate you.
     
  14. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Sorry buddy. I did it to save your dog.
     
  15. SRTLUVR

    SRTLUVR Detailing "Go-to" Guy

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    LMFAO!!! :D Looking for part numbers and pricing right now......
     
  16. LegMaker

    LegMaker LMI - LegMakerIntakes

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    dave...... way to shit on his parade.....

    chase, just ignore dave..... go pet your dog and give him a hug and apologize to him now for possible future trama he may receive if this is not over.....lol
     
  17. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    I disagree, Dave. If the pump is going bad (or is bad), I would think it would be heard AND visible (by leakage)?

    The new cap probably did the trick, and the old cap (which was bad) still allowed air to seep in and create another air pocket.

    I know this from experience. haha Ask Snehal and his brother. Hell, ask Maureen. We F^$%ed with my car in Barstow, CA for HOURS (6 to be exact).

    New T-Stat, pretty much a FLUSH on the I-15 and at a Napa (lol) with no results. Ended up deleting the t-stat to finish our drive home. Next day we learned that GSM gave me a BAD (old is more like it) Rad Cap...
     
  18. The Max

    The Max Full Access Member

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    This sounds like a Fuggin nightmare as you would say.

    Everyone is giving great advice, something great about these forums!

    Simple process of elimination right, after you have replaced all your cooling parts.

    T-stat, temp sensor, coolant how many times,radiator cap, air pocket I mean holy shit!

    Only two things left are your water pump, and radiator, possibly clogged.

    How many miles do you have on this setup?

    Can you have somebody test the water pressure from water pump?

    Normally water pumps leak when they are bad.

    Sounds like you are not moving enough coolant thru radiator, maybe an air pocket could do that but unlikely, especially with fans fully functional.

    Do you have an infrared (non contact) heat temperature sensor? That would at least indicate your temp at certain areas.

    Hopefully soon you get it fixed. Good Luck
     
  19. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    Chase,

    could you please share with me your fan settings in the Predator?


    LS =
    MS=
    HS=


    AC Off
    LS
    MS
    HS

    AC On
    LS
    MS
    HS
     
  20. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Yes, most all water pumps fail at the bearings and, naturally, when the bearings go it leaks there. I'm thinking it's got to be possible for the impellors to fail (Erik said they were plastic right?). Let's say one or more impellors broke off either completely or part way. bearings fine, no noise (the impellor pieces go downstream and lodge somewhere) ==> reduced flow/cooling capacity. Manages to get by ok until the HS fans go out. With the HS fans working, cooling capacity is just barely adequate except for the extreme conditions -- like sitting idling after running it up to operating temps.