HOW-TO: Boomba BOV (Blow-Off Valve) / Stock Surge Valve w/Blue Plate

Stock Surge Valve w/Blue Plate write-up can be found on Post #4 of this thread.

Boomba BOV
by: Figs

For those on PCM Control boost and wanting to run a aftermarket surge valve (bov) in the stock location to replace the stock surge valve... Boomba has the answer! These units come natural, blue, red, black finish. It comes with a 13psi, 16psi, 19psi spring.



Tools Required:


-Flathead screwdriver
-3/8" Rachet
-3/8" Extension (12")
-13mm Socket (3/8")
-10mm Racheting Wrench
-10mm Wrench
-1/4" Rachet
-10mm Socket (1/4")
-Wire Cutters (Pliers)

Materials Required:
Zipties

Average Install Time: 1-2hrs

1. Remove the battery terminals. Starting with the Ground first. Once both terminals removed make sure you push them back away from the battery.



2. Remove the intake tube (or intake if you have an aftermarket one).


3. Remove the 13mm bolt thats behind the battery in the center on the battery tray. There's a bracket this bolt holds down to keep the battery from moving. After your remove the bolt, pull up and take the battery out of the car.



4. Locate your stock surge valve (bov), its right on the turbo facing towards the head in a downward angle. In the picture you see a blue plate (Mopar's diversion valve). This is aftermarket. If you don't have this, don't worry about it. Take off the pink line off the surge valve. Remove the surge valve (and or surge valve with blue plate) using a 10mm racheting wrench. There's (3) bolts that need to be removed. The one in the back being the tough one to get to. If you bring your hand underneath the surge valve with the racheting wrench you'll be able to get it.




5. Now that its removed. Here's what it should all look like.


The stock surge valve next to the Boomba unit.


6. Time to install the Boomba unit. If you had the blue plate, then the bolts are too long and you must use shorter ones. If you just had the stock surge valve then the bolts you took off should be fine to use with the Boomba unit. Make sure when installing it that you align the opening in the turbo housing with the opening on the bov as well as the gasket. You will use the regular 10mm wrench to install the Boomba unit. You can use the 10mm (1/4") socket with 1/4" wrench for 2 of the bolts... won't work for the back one (doesn't fit). Once the unit is installed and nice and tight, connect the pink line to the unit and ziptie it.


7. Install your battery back in. Make sure the bracket in the back of the tray is on correctly and the bolt is tight. Check to see if the battery can be moved, try pulling up on it. If you can pull it back out then the bracket wasn't installed back correctly. Once the bracket is on correctly and battery doesn't move proceed to connecting positive terminal first, then ground. Install your intake tube (intake) back.



8. Make sure everything is tight and secure and go take the car for a test drive!

I opted in using the 16psi spring and here's a video clip shortly after install:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/SRT4-Boomba-Bov-16psi_195950.htm

 

Took out the 16psi spring and installed the 13psi spring. Here's the vid with the 13psi spring...
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/SRT4-Boomba-BOV-13psi_196258.htm

 

Nice write-up!

Also be sure to do a boost leak test after the install.

 

Think this might compliment this thread: (Will delete if OP wants me to and I will start a thread)

I hear everyone complaining about the Mopar BOV leaking. I want to fix that.

Well I was in the same boat with my AGP EVM conversion plate. I applied a light coat of copper permatex to the back of it.

Slapped it on there. Had to remove the coolant return line int he process.


The damn 3rd bolt was absolutely in the way. My friend couldn't it hold it, it was 100 plus degrees out and we were both pissed. So we just took the damn line off. It is advised to get new washers since they are compressed. But we put it back together with no leaks coming from that line.
If you do need to take that line off. (Makes job WAYYY easier) I recommend getting the washers fromt he dealership. Part # 04852396AB $3.50 each. You need two of them. The torque on that bolt is 27ft lbs or 37 NM.
I did have a boost leak though, was probably due to not letting the Copper RTV cure. We put it on there and drove about 20 minutes later. I was really curious about it the copper RTV and emailed Permatex about my application. They told me that the Copper Permatex WAS NOT recommended. Instead to use this:
http://www.permatex.com/products/au...72_High_Temperature_Form-A-Gasket_Sealant.htm
http://www.permatex.com/images/DisplayImage.asp?210|/images/ProductPhotos/80088.jpg[img]
[quote]Slow setting, non-hardening, high temperature sealant. Especially recommended for heavy-duty applications. Temperature range -65°F to 600°F (-54°C to 315°C) intermittent. Resists common shop fluids.

Suggested Applications: Coating and sealing exhaust gaskets, flanges and connections, and other heavy duty applications.
[/quote]
I also was searching around and people had good luck with this:
Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

[url]http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Hylomar_Universal_Blue_Racing_Formula_Gasket_Dressing_Flange_Sealant.htm[/url]

Then I read about others having good luck with Black RTV or "the Right Stuff" by Permatex.

Then of course I hear multiple people say they have great luck with the fiber paper gasket that comes with the Mopar piece. But the problem I see with that, is that it deteriorates over time due to the high heat. Might be caused due to the thin nature of the gasket. Ususally starts to eat away around the 3 bolts due to the pressure.

[B]What I plan on doing[/B]
I recently got a Mopar conversion plate with hardware from turbosocks. He hooked me up good price wise. I decided to buy some gasket making material. O'reilly's offered 3 different thicknesses. I went with the thickest. 3/64''
[IMG]http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/r1c0chet/azer060.jpg
I then put my BOV on there and outlined it around it and the crescent:

I then started to cut it out. For the crescent I just used a razor blade. An exacto knife probably would of worked better.
Since the gasket comes rolled its not flat. So I put the rice plate on top of the gasket and put a 2 liter on top of it and let it sit for a day. Flattened it out well.

I then taped the plate onto the gasket and drilled the mounting holes.
Here is the result:

Heres the "fuzziness" I was talking about:

Random picture:

Put together. It was nice because the hardwared screwed into the gasket and kept everything together so it would become one nice unit like the Boomba piece. Not having to worry about everything falling apart. I actually plan on putting some sort of the sealant that I plan on getting on the surge valve around the bolts




Make sure to have it set up with the two holes where the nipple is. And the hole in the plate faces up and mates with the rubber piece in the surgevalve.


Whats next
I plan on emailing Permatex again this year with more detailed pictures and see what they have to say on what sealants would be fine.

I also need to know the torque of those 3 bolts. I looked on All-Data and Mitchell On Demand, no luck.

I will apply the sealant onto the bottom of the turbo and then mate everything together. Having the sealant with the gasket will hopefully provide a long time leak free seal.

 

great write-up

 

Thanks for adding to the write up, its well suited within this thread so there's no need to make a new thread if there's no need to. I will just change the title to accomodate your write-up as well.

As for the torque setting on the bolts, I really don't think anyone has used any. Being that its hard to get anything to those bolts besides a ratcheting wrench. Just be sure not to over-tighten, strip threads, or break the bolts. I base it almost like spark plugs, turn until its tight and give a 1/4 turn more (if available)... you have to "feel" the bolt meaning when it feels tight don't go beyond that.

For sealant, go to Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone and get the High Temp Black RTV. Apply a light coat and let everything set for the appropriate healing time. Pretty much let it settle the rest of the day after install and over night. Not letting it heal and starting the car right up after install will cause the RTV to turn like goo once the car heats up.

 

I am actually debating on taking the paper gasket off and just using "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. Bascially apply a thin bead around the crescent and the outer edges on the Mopar piece, put it on torque it down and she be ready! Almost no cure time! While the Black RTV/Copper RTV could be used, its just the fact there is a 24 hour cure time. That was the main mistake I made with my AGP piece, is we went and drove the car right away, plus it wasn't apllied right. Supposed to do a thin bead and finger tighten it down, let it sit for 20 mintues then torque it down.

Check this video out:
http://www.permatex.com/videos/video_gasketing_eng.html

I did get an email back from Permatex and they told me to call them... Kind of hard to explain over the phone.

Edit:
Talked to Ray at Permatex. Very nice guy. He said an anaerobic sealant would work great. He recommended part number 51031 by itself.

He said I could use the Black RTV in conjuction with the paper gasket. Apply a bead around the edge of the paper gasket, around the crescent and around the bolt holes. He said it would be alright to make some sort of beat pattern everywhere else. Finger tighten it, let it sit for 20 mintues, then torque it down and let it sit for an hour.

Problem with the Right stuff is that you have to apply it right away, so in a hard area like that, moving it around trying to get it on etc with "Right stuff" out in the open isn't a good idea.

 

I've never had to use any RTV on mine. Not on the blue plate when I had it, not on the Block Off Plate when I had my HKS and didn't use any on the Boomba I have now installed.

Your better off with just the black RTV. That's what I've always used on the ones that do want to leak. The cure time applies depending on how much you put on. If you put a bead around, torque everything down and let it sit over night you should be good to go the next day. Just make sure the car is cool when you work on it. As far as applying some then driving the car 20 minutes later is not going to happen. Just taking these cars around the block they get extremely hot under the hood.

Permatex Black RTV never let me down and that's what I'll always use when needed.

 

Just so you know. Your not going to leak from stock surge valve to blue (inbetween both pieces. The rubber piece on the stock surge valve is pressed up against the blue plate. The leak(s) people complain about is between the blue plate and compressor housing. Its more of a given fact from inproper install (not installing it right). If you use the gasket alone you have to make sure you torque evenly around and all are tight. If you use RTV alone you have to give it the proper cure time (let is sit over night or so). If you use the gasket and a bead of RTV same thing... proper cure time for the RTV.

Most common thing is people use RTV, slap everything together and take off driving it around. Which the RTV is still not heal so the RTV gets blown from the boost pressure and the remainder turns into goo melting on your compressor housing. I have seen it with a friends car as thats what he did.

Patience is the key!

 

Well said. Should I just start out and just use the gasket with no form of RTV and see how well that works? No wait time doing it that way. Hit or miss. I just feel obligated to use that gasket stuff since I spent $6 on a roll of it. If that doesn't work I will try the anaerobic sealer that was recommended and let it cure right. He is even going to ship me out a free sample.
Quick question: How hot does it get in that area? Over 350? Also, what is the compressor housing made out of? Aluminum? Mopar plate is aluminum too right?

 

When I was running the blue plate I ordered some high temp silicone gasket from MCmaster Carr. The night before I put some red rtv to hold the gasket in place and it worked beautifully. The only leak I had was from the surge valve because the diaphram wouldn't seal against the plate.

 

You can try it out with just the gasket first to see if it panes out. That way you don't have to worry about the messy RTV nor cure time. If it leaks, take it off and apply a bead on each side of the gasket and let it cure.

I have no idea how hot it gets but it gets hot enough just going around the block for you not to want to touch it lol. The Mopar plate how light it is, more the likely is made out of aluminum.

 

A member on 2gn.org has 100k on her car with the Mopar Blue Plate, no leaks yet. She used Universal blue with Hylomar on both sides of the paper gasket. I think I will try that route first. I am going to compare the TDS sheet with the Black RTV.

Edit, did you use the Ultra Black RTV or just the reg. Black RTV Jesus?

 

Permatex Ultra Black RTV

 

Should I use it on both sides of the gasket? Wouldn't that create more routes for air to leak?

 

Yes and it wouldn't create routes if you disperse it evenly around the gasket (beads/outline).

 

So you recommend beads instead of a flat film over it all like what I did with the AGP?

 

You can do a flat film, it comes out almost like beads if you use the nozzle on it. Pretty much make sure its sealed all the way around and put it together and let it sit so it cures.

 

Well I got a Boomba and used the 13lb spring. I installed it not too long ago. I used a thin bead of Copper RTV around the outside of the BOV and around the bolt holes. I then finger tightened it down. Waited about 40 minutes and tightened it all the way down. Not wure what the torque is on those bolts.. Anyone know? Would be nice to know since I will be able to actually torque it down since my S3 fold is off the car. I just tightened it down so I could not turn it anymore without using a lot of force. All equal all around.

What a PITA it will be to take it off. 10mm ratcheting box end will not be able to take it off since the head is too fat. Only the open end or a 10mm socket on a ratchet... That 3rd bolt looks to a PITA.

After 45 minutes/

 

Don't know the torque specs but I always tightened them till I felt anymore force will snap the bolt.

And yes the Boomba bov you can't use the ratcheting wrench. Which will make the 3rd bolt difficult. I used a 1/4 ratchet with a short 10mm socket on 1st/2nd bolts and an opened end 10mm wrench on the 3rd bolt which I can say wasn't fun!