Yep, did it all by my lonesome! Did some bedding 6x60mph-0mph, and wala! 1. Jack up car 2. Take Tire off 3. Knock back pins holding pad in caliper. 4. Remove old pads (remember direction of placement for pad and spring-clip) 5. Replace with new ones 6. Reassemble. Yes, its THAT easy... heck, I did it!
My local mechanic won't replace my rear brakes,25k miles less than 15% left, unless he replaces rotors. WTF I assume you didn't replace rotors, almost $200 plus each, or have them cut because they are slotted rotors. Also you did you use bendix(MKD592A-rear and Mkd1149-front) which is really Bendix Titanium Metallic II? Question the bedding as I thought these pads did not need ? My local auto parts store said wagner makes replacement pads also and I will have to get numbers Sam
soooooo momo......going to the dust less posi quiet finally huh??? you know, the ones that stop within THREE feet of the stock brembo ones! lol so tell me momo, how did it feel to get your hands dirty for once.....with car grease that is......lol
Sometimes it takes Ron a few months to get to a thread . I think he was avoiding this one since we had a $5 bet (at 2:1) that Momo would do it himself. So I got some beers coming.
Are you talking about the caliper pistons? If so, I just get my fingers in there and depress them towards the pistons and they come out. Make sure to depress them enough to account for the width of the new pads. Hope this helps.
You mean to retract the pistons? Not unless you doing a bunch every day. You just hook your fingers on the pads or pistons and squeeze/pull. The pistons will slowly retract to where you can slide the pads out or back in.
I was expecting more along the lines of 1. Drink beer 2. Jack up car 3. drink more beer 4. remove wheel 5. begin to remove pins smash hand 6. curse and throw tools 7. weep 8. drink beer 9. remove old pads 10. insert new pads 11. reassemble 12. spend 20 minutes looking for parts kicked aside from #6 13. reinstall wheel 14. spend 20 more minutes drinking beer wondering how you lost 2 lugnuts 15. spend the next 20 minutes drinking beer and contemplating if 3 lugnuts is enough 16. lather rinse repeat for each wheel. :grin:
i know this is old.. but i am brining it back. Soooo.. after removing wheel step, just use my hands and push on the old brake pad to get the calipar pushed back in, then remove pins and pad??
ROFLMAO. How did I miss this before...LOL It doesn't really matter when you push the caliper pistons in...they just need to be depressed so you can get the new, thicker pad over the rotor after you have reinstalled them in the caliper. You can remove the pins and slide the caliper off anytime you are ready...remove the old pads, install the new pads in their place being sure to follow the mfg. recommendations as far as using shims or anti-squealing goop or whatever. I used nothing on my rears when I did them and they squealed initially when backing up but went away quickly and has been quiet ever since. The whole procedure is really as easy as it looks.
You can just use your hands to push/squeeze on the pads to push the calipers back if the pads are not loose. Once you slip the old pads out then you want to get your finger tips in there and squeeze the calipers all the way back so the fatter new pads will slip in. The calipers will move back slowly. Squeeze hard and hold for a while, they'll retract. Don't forget, you got to squeeze all the pistons on one side at a time or it's going to be like whack-a-mole. Or you can buy some nifty retractor tool that sort of looks like the jaws of life with paddles on it for about $50 and you could probably do about 4 cars an hour.
Hmmm, your pads should NOT be stuck to the rotors (unless you got your rotors red hot and stopped with your foot on the brake before doing the job ). I think the tool you're thinking of is for retracting the pistons and you only need that if you have a shop and are doing many cars each day. You do insert that between the rotor and the pad and it spreads, pushing them apart, but that's just so the pad pushes all the pistons back at the same time. Your pads should be just barely loose and if you push on them a bit it pushes the pistons back far enough so you can easily remove the old pad and then you need to squeeze the pistons back the reas of the way so you can get the new, thicker, pads in there. The tool is more of a convenience and to save a little bit of time. How come I've replied to this same single post about 3 times over the past 2 years? It's like groundhog day... :wacko: