HOW-TO: Fuel Pump Rewire

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by Cygnus, Aug 24, 2008.

  1. Cygnus

    Cygnus Platinum Supporting Member

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    To read upon the benefits of such mod please go to this thread...

    A fuel pump rewire is a must for these cars and I highly recommend.

    ***Please use a jack AND jackstands for safety***

    To source out the parts needed you can go to either Autozone or Discount. I went to Autozone.

    Parts Needed:
    10 gauge wire (8 feet - RED)
    10 gauge inline fuse that supports 30amp fuse
    30 amp Fuse
    Female connectors (Yellow 10g and Blue 16g)
    Closed ring connectors (Yellow - 10gauge)
    30amp fog lamp relay (Autozone - Duralast Part# 19273 or MR76)
    Electric tape
    Wire loom
    Zipties

    Tools Needed:
    13mm wrench
    13mm socket
    10mm socket
    3/8" extension
    Ratchet (socket wrench)
    Wire cutters
    Wire strippers
    Solder
    Soldering Iron
    Heatshrink
    Lighter

    ***Pictures for reference in Post #2***

    Step 1: Disconnect the (-) negative terminal off your battery.

    Step 2: Go the passenger side of the engine bay. Behind the you will find a heatshield thats covering the alternator. It has (2) 10mm bolts that need to be removed. Removed these bolts and move the heatshield away so you have access to the alternator.

    Step 3: Towards the top on the side of the alternator you will see a plastic cap that's covering a terminal. Unclip the cap. You will see a nut on the terminal. Remove this nut, its 13mm nut and you need a 13mm wrench to remove it.

    Step 4: Take you 10gauge wire, cut about 10 inches or so off. At one end put a 10gauge closed ring connector and on the other end solder the inline fuse and heatshrink the exposed wires/solder. Tap over the heatshrink for good measure. On the other end of the inline fuse solder the remainding 10gauge wire and do the same heatshrink.

    Step 5: Put in the 30amp fuse into the inline fuse. Take the closed ring connector and put it unto the alternator terminal. Hold it in place with the other wire that was already there (if you would like to be able to put the plastic cap back on the terminal), put the nut back on and tighten, put the plastic cap back on.

    Step 6: Run the 10gauge wire along the fuel lines going back to the fuel tank. For safety I wrapped mine in wire loom so I suggest you do the same. Then I ziptied it firmly (not tight) against the fuel lines. Keeping the wire away from any moving objects and extreme heat.

    Step 7: Look at the gas tank (passenger side). There's a white/clear circular canister. On there there's a grounding plug on the FPR and another bigger plug plugged into the canister. Press the red safety tabe on the bigger plug and unplug it.

    Step 8: Take the tape off the wires going to that plug. You will find a wire thats GREEN with a WHITE STRIPE. Cut this wire but make sure you have enough wire available to put female connectors on each end. Once you cut the wire, strip ends and put female connectors (blue 16g) on each end. Put the plug back into the the canister plug end. Push the safety red tab back in its locking place.

    Step 9: Go back to the end of the wire you ran from the alternator. Give yourself a couple/few inches and cut it around where you cut the GREEN with WHITE STRIPE wire. At the end of the wire, crimp a female connector (yellow 10g).

    Step 10: The remainding 10 gauge wire. Put a female connector (yellow 10g) on one end and a closed ring connector (yellow 10g) on the other end. This wire will be your ground. Loosen/remove the nut on the tension strut (see picture for reference). Put the closed ring connector of this wire through the stud, put the nut back on and tighten.

    Step 11: Grab your relay and make sure it has the following numbers #85, #86, #87, #30.

    Step 12: Connect the wires accordingly to the relay
    #85- Connect to the ground wire
    #86- Connect on the HARNESS end of the white/green wire
    #87- Connect on the FUEL PUMP end of the white/green wire
    #30- Connect on the 10 gauge wire from the alternator

    Step 12: Tape everything tight and clear from debri/water. Secure the relay so its not loose and hanging there.

    Step 13: Tighten the (-) negative terminal back unto your battery. Close the hood.

    Step 14: Get in the car, turn the key to the 2nd click (the click before starting the car). Listen for the fuel pump to turn on (prime)... sounds like a wine. When it stops, start the car up! Let it run for a little bit then take it for a test drive.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2008
  2. Cygnus

    Cygnus Platinum Supporting Member

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    Picture of the ground wire going from the tension strut (passenger rear along side the rear tire)
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the wires going into the relay
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    Picture of the relay (taped up hiding the connectors on the end of the wires)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the power wire from the alternator ziptied to fuel line and covered by wire loom
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the inline fuse
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Picture of the heatshield covering the alternator with arrows pointing to the bolts that need to be removed to access the alternator.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2008
  3. Cygnus

    Cygnus Platinum Supporting Member

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  4. StillANeon

    StillANeon Full Access Member

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    Great how-to me and my other SRT buddy will have this done by the end of the year.
     
  5. SRT4Does12s

    SRT4Does12s New Member

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    Awsome write up my friend. i did this a while back and it is VERY much worth it!!!!!
     
  6. KrazyRdR83

    KrazyRdR83 Dig or Roll?

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    cheapest and easiest mod to do...did this awhile back, def made an improvement