Can an email tune cure this or am i stuck until i get a CMR tune? I have a predator and have been thinking about doing a Cam, at which point i will need a tune... wondering if an Email tune is good enough for a Cam only car, or if i need to pony up for the $500 CMR tune... :cry: if an email tune would work, and will get that stupid code gone consider me sold... i have a wideband going in so datalogs with AF wouldnt be an issue... just dont want to be spending $400 everytime i put a mod on the car...
$500 is a LOT for a cam only tune. You should be looking at more like $200. An email tune would be fine. You may want to talk to who you're buying your cam from. I know that Inertia only charges $150 for a tune with one of their cams (you get 2 revisions to fine-tune anything). What temp t-stat are you running? What are your fan temps set at? Did you know to auto-stick it when you first start driving to get the temps up?
running a 176, it fine all summer... then it gets a couple cool days and DING stupid light comes on... im using the fant temp settings that were on this site for the 180* stat. yeah i saw that inertia does that for their cams... i was looking at a cam from them... but i believe its one CAM has in stock... so i might not get that deal... still $200 is cheaper than $400 or more... so long as that stupid light goes out. Yeah i autostick it to warm it up, but my wife (who drives it regularly) doesnt... so it pops on and laughs in my face... LOL:censored:
If its really bothering you that much, you could PM Johan at Diablo and he could probably do a quick tweak to your canned tune. He could also do the email tuning for the cam if need be. I don't want to talk about the cost other than to say he is very fair.
Its a canned 91 octane CAI tune; is there a revision on Diablosport.com to kill this code? I think there should be since most people get the diablo to change the fan temps for a new thermostat... Ill try and get it all exported tonight. thanks Mike.
It doesn't have anything to do with your fans (well, unless you have them set at or below 177). It's all how long the coolant takes to get up to a certain temp (something between 167 and 177). After startup, if the coolant doesn't get up to a certain temp in a certain amount of time (10 minutes or something) then it sets a flag. If this gets flagged on some number of consecutive startup cycles then it throws a code. Your t-stat is very close to that threshold temperature. When it's warm out there's no problem. When it's cold out and if partially opens as it gets to the t-stat temp (likely), or you're driving it before it's fully warmed up and you get increased (cold) airflow, etc., then it's going to take longer to get fully warmed up. This extra time is putting you over the edge. Something like a 180 t-stat doesn't have the problem because it's full closed until the temp is well over the threshold. A 176 is right at the (stock) threshold. Did you try letting it just warm all the way up before driving? Or as (Adam?) suggested, auto-sticking it to hold some rpms until it gets warmed up (faster)? I believe what DS will do for you is to lower that threshold in the tune or disable it altogether. That will work too.
Yeah i understand how it works.. its just annoying... i can warm the car up all i want.... and reset it everytime i see it... but my wife drives the car 4 days a week... so when i get back into it... its always on cause she lets it warm up... but not enough to keep the code off...
Yeah i told her about that... she loves the idea... our buddy has it on his diesel... its great in Laughlin... he can start the truck from his room in the tower of the hotel... and by the time we get to the truck the AC has it nice and chilly in there...
