To start, the LX has what is called a "virtual pivot" This means the there are not 2 pivot points on the knuckle; in fact there are 3 pivot points. Now this is actually a great thing. A classic dual balljoint or pivot setup like the GTO for example, pivots at the lower control arm ball joint and the top strut. Like Mercedes and many other European designs, there are 2 balljoints at the bottom of the knuckle that the knucle attaches to, and in fact pivot on. But the acutual pivot point, is a virtual point under the tire, and not at the balljoints themselves. This is fantastic way of putting the load of the vehicle closers to the center of the tire; a very good thing. On a single balljoint setup, the balljoint housing or control arm stays stationary, and the ballstud itself rotates. This is classic suspension. But with a virtual pivot there is a balljoint attached to the lower control arm, and one attached to the radius rod itself, and they are pretty close to side by side attached to the knuckel. Now the balljoint on the lower control arm is a primary one, and the balljoint on the radius rod is a secondary unit. Since you are now pivoting on 3 points, something else has to move. So the radius rod balljoint moves back and forth (front to rear) perpendicular to the angle the radius rod sits to the knuckle. Chrysler LX has this exact setup. Here is a picture of the movement of the balljoint and radius rod at the knuckle when the wheel is turned: http://rides.webshots.com/video/3054585030054308893Wuhmfi http://rides.webshots.com/video/3054585030054308893Wuhmfi Here it is again Now when the knuckle turns, and the radius rod balljoint moves (maybe 2-3 inches back and forth) the radius rod MUST also allow some controlled movement of the radius rod. If not, parts would bend. This is why our radius rod bushes have engineered voids placed at the areas that allow the type of movement shown in the video. So the actual radius rod moves 2 to 3 inches, and will pivot on the radius rod bush itself. So when the radius rod ball joint moves, it will pivot at the strut bushing. Then when you add the 4000 pound plus energy that goes thru these bushes when braking and cornering, they have to be stoutly. Then you add some big (and heavy) wheels and tires, which has shown to add a lot more stress and are taking out tie rods on the LX) and on top of this, add some very spirited, playful driving, these bushes are problematic and will not last under these circumstances. We traditionally start to see them tear in the 25K miles. So I hope the video helps explain the bushing movement Any questions, just ask mike dms mike dms
That's great info Mike. My goal is to have the best all around LX suspension that will do circles around EVO's, M3's and other pretty reputable vehicles. And what the suspension lacks...I'll make sure the driver makes up!!! LOL I have chatted multiple times with JBA. Mike Hill, parts manager will make the decisions on the dealer stuff. But they are taking their time on deciding due to them being so busy mike dms
hi mike, i went into a local tire shop today to have them look at my ride. ive been getting a squeek and a popping noise from the front wheels when i turn or take a dip in the road. doesnt happen all the time, but enough to make it annoying for me. the mech said it was my ball joint, it was slipping and losing grease. i needed to get it replaced with a new on that "self lubed". do you guys make this part or do i have to go with the part he wants to install. he told me parts would be about $120, labor $250 or so....
We do not sell the balljoints. We only offer the bushings. I will tell you $120 is a great price. I was under the understanding the tension arm was around $300 mike dms
i dont think its the joint itself but the bushing that holds the grease....at least thats what i think he meant. does this make sense to you? oh and thanks for getting back so quick.
there is no grease in the bushing. There is a seal around the balljoint that can tear and allow the grease to ooze out. I suggest you contact the shop again and ask them again so you can pass on info to all of us best of luck mike dms
i will, thanks mike. i would rather get it done by you though, do you have a shop around the bay or are you strictly in sales?
Here ya go Steve. Looks like Newark is the closest Pedders Dealer. http://www.peddersusa.com/dealer-finder/36/dealer55
yeah, i went down there a month or so back for the same thing, all the guy did was spray some lube on the endlinks. it may have worked for a bit but it wasnt a fix.
